![]() For this, you will need a wire stripper that is approximately one to two sizes smaller than your wire. Then, you need to remove approximately one inch of insulation from each wire you will be splicing.If the wire is attached to the wall and cannot be unplugged, always turn off the circuit. First, unplug the device that contains the wires you are going to be splicing.To complete this method, the steps you need to follow include: Before you splice them together, you may decide to strip the insulation. The first option is to strip the wires and then splice them. What are the pros and cons of each method? There are several steps to follow. You might use a wire cap or nut if you are working with smaller wires however, you may decide to use a butt splice if you are working with larger wires. ![]() In other cases, you may try to solder them together. In some cases, you may simply use a few wire caps. There are many ways you can splice wires together. If you are splicing wires together, you combine two separate lengths of wire so that they can carry a current for you. You cannot join wires that are not the same gauge, as you are going to run into some serious electrical problems. That way, they can quickly and efficiently transfer electricity to each other. If you need help figuring out which junction boxes best for you, reach out to your local hardware store.įinally, before you start, you also need to make sure the wires you are putting together have the same gauge and number of wires. Then, you should make sure you have the appropriate junction box to make sure your splice is safe. These come in various shapes and sizes, so you have to think about completing the project. These devices are listed in the UL White book as Nonmetallic-Sheathed Cable Interconnectors (QAAV).In addition, if you decide to splice some wires together, you have to make sure you have junction boxes available. If an electrician has the accessibility and availability to replace existing wiring with new wiring, there would be no need for a device such as a nonmetallic-sheathed cable interconnector. One of the major things to remember about this product is that the device is for “repair” purposes only. This quote from the IAEI Magazine article Enter the Nonmetallic-sheathed Cable Interconnector, sums it up quite well. Which means that they should only be used where a cable was damaged, and replacing the cable is not practicable. The device can be concealed, but only when used in existing buildings for " repair wiring". Now the devices can still be used where exposed, but the concealed use has changed. Self-contained switches, self-contained receptacles and nonmetallic-sheathed cable interconnector devices of insulating material that are listed shall be permitted to be used without boxes in exposed cable wiring and for repair wiring in existing buildings where the cable is concealed. National Electrical Code 2014ģ34.40(B) Devices of Insulating Materials. In the 2014 version of the code, things changed a bit. This would allow for the extraction of the device, for inspection, maintenance, and repair. Adding the " fished" requirement, meant that the device would not be fastened in place. Which means the devices could be used in exposed locations, and concealed in existing buildings, but only when fished. Switch, outlet, and tap devices of insulating material shall be permitted to be used without boxes in exposed cable wiring and for rewiring in existing buildings where the cable is concealed and fished. National Electrical Code 2011ģ34.40(B) Devices of Insulating Materials. The 2011 version of the code had this to say. The use of these devices is limited to specific situations, which are described in 334.40(B) of the National Electrical Code.
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